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第39章 A CLIMB UP MOUNT VESUVIUS

1.Of all the volcanoes in the world,Vesuvius is perhaps the most interesting.It is easy to climb,for it is only about four thousand feet high;and if you do not wish to climb it on foot,you can take a carriage to the foot of the cone,where you will find a cable railway which will carry you to the very top.

2.The district in which Vesuvius stands is one of the most fertile spots in Europe.On the sunny slopes of thehills around we find indigo,liquorice,tobacco,rice,olives,lemons,grapes,oranges,walnuts,chestnuts,figs,and peaches growing,besides many of the fruits whichbelong to the torrid zone,and nearly all those of thetemperate regions.The soil is rich,the sun is brightand warm,and rain is abundant throughout the winter months.

3.In the midst of all this grand display of the bounties of nature stands Vesuvius dark,barren,uncultivated,and desolate.When we cast our eyes up the slopes of the mountain,we see clearly marked the line where the bright green of the cultivated region meets the bleak barrenness of what we can only compare to a huge cinder-heap.

4.When an eruption occurs,a stream of red-hot lavaflows down like a river of molteniron.It carries allbefore it.It rolls up to a house,and the house falls before it.It approaches a tree,and wraps it in its fiery mantle;the sap within the tree becomes steam,and the tree explodes with a sound like that of a cannon.Sometimes the stream pushes on until it rolls into the sea,where it casts up volumes of steam,as if a new volcano had broken out at the foot of the mountain.

5.The pleasantest way to see Vesuvius is to visit it on a summer night.As we ascend the mountain,winding over the steep road,we see the Bay of Naples sparkling in the sunshine,while the bright glow ofevening casts its rosy light over the busy cityat ourfeet.As the sun dips below the horizon,the first rays of the moon are already beginning to gleam behindthe distant Apennines;and before we are half-wayacross the vast lava-beds,we are in a fairy scene of silver brightness,crossed here and there by the dark shadows and rugged outlines of the old lava streams around us.

6.At midnight we reach the lower station of the cable tramway or railway which is to draw us up.Here we stop for a rest and for supper.In an hour‘s time we are seated in a carriage,and are being hauled up the steep sides of the cone.Then a short walk brings us to the top,and what a scene meets us there!

7.Steam is coming out in large puffs from the central cone;and now and then with a loud roar the mountain casts large masses of red-hot stones high into the air.We see the vapour gleaming fiercely red as the hot stones fly upward.The still night air is rent by the roar of the mountain as it discharges a fiery volley into space,soon to fall in a shower on the rocks around us.

8.As dawn begins to break,we see the shadow of the mountain thrown across the bay.The peaks to the eastward are warmed with the first glow of sun light,and the blue sea to the westward is tinged with gold.It is a scene of marvellous beauty,and we should forget its dangers,if the dead city of Pompeii did not lie at the foot of the slope,four thousand feet beneath us,teaching us its dread lesson.

9.It is full daylight now,and we can approach nearerthe craterwithout great danger.We follow our guideconfidently,though we are half stifled by the fumes of sulphur,and hot stones now and then fall unpleasantly near us.The guide puts the ladies into a place of safety;but we go on,following him closely,and keeping an eye on the mountain.

10.The walking is steep and rough now,the fumes are almost stifling,and the cinders beneath us areso hot that we feel our feet burning.The guide puts his handkerchief over his mouth,and we follow his example.

He has reached the top,and we are close behind him.We look over,and see a mass of red-hot cinders like a burning cliff.As the wind clears away the steam,we look down into an immense black gulf.

11.The mountain roars again;the red-hot stones fly past us.We are safe here,because the wind is now quite strong,and carries the stones to leeward;but it is not a place to linger in.A sudden change of wind might mean death.The falling in of the ridge on which we stand would mean death also.The scene is most exciting,andas we turn to descend,and see our friends looking at usthrough their field-glasses,we feel that they,too,musthave held their breath when they saw us shroude.insteam and close to the open crater.

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