Wild Moors - The Guide - Scientific Discourse - The Land of Arthur - The Umbrella - Arrival at Bala.
WHEN I had rested myself and finished the buttermilk, I got up, and ****** the good woman a small compensation for her civility, inquired if I could get to Bala without returning to Llan Rhyadr.
"Oh yes," said she, "if you cross the hills for about five miles you will find yourself upon a road which will take you straight to Bala.""Is there anyone here," said I, "who will guide me over the hills, provided I pay him for his trouble?""Oh yes," said she, "I know one who will be happy to guide you whether you pay him or not."She went out and presently returned with a man about thirty-five, stout and well-looking, and dressed in a waggoner's frock.
"There," said she, "this is the man to show you over the hills; few know the paths better."I thanked her, and telling the man I was ready, bade him lead the way. We set out, the two dogs of which I have spoken attending us, and seemingly very glad to go. We ascended the side of the hog-backed hill to the north of the Rhyadr. We were about twenty minutes in getting to the top, close to which stood a stone or piece of rock, very much resembling a church altar, and about the size of one. We were now on an extensive moory elevation, having the brook which forms the Rhyadr a little way on our left. We went nearly due west, following no path, for path there was none, but keeping near the brook. Sometimes we crossed water-courses which emptied their tribute into the brook, and every now and then ascended and descended hillocks covered with gorse and whin. After a little time I entered into conversation with my guide. He had not a word of English.
"Are you married?" said I.
"In truth I am, sir."
"What family have you?"
"I have a daughter."
"Where do you live?"
"At the house of the Rhyadr."
"I suppose you live there as servant?"
"No, sir, I live there as master."
"Is the good woman I saw there your wife?""In truth, sir, she is."
"And the young girl I saw your daughter?""Yes, sir, she is my daughter."
"And how came the good woman not to tell me you were her husband?""I suppose, sir, you did not ask who I was, and she thought you did not care to know.""But can you be spared from home?"
"Oh yes, sir, I was not wanted at home."
"What business are you?"
"I am a farmer, sir."
"A sheep farmer?"
"Yes, sir."
"Who is your landlord."
"Sir Watkin."
"Well, it was very kind of you to come with me.""Not at all, sir; I was glad to come with you, for we are very lonesome at Rhyadr, except during a few weeks in the summer, when the gentry come to see the Pistyll. Moreover, I have sheep lying about here which need to be looked at now and then, and by coming hither with you I shall have an opportunity of seeing them."We frequently passed sheep feeding together in small numbers. In two or three instances my guide singled out individuals, caught them, and placing their heads between his knees examined the insides of their eyelids, in order to learn by their colour whether or not they were infected with the pwd or moor disorder. We had some discourse about that malady. At last he asked me if there was a remedy for it.
"Oh yes," said I; "a decoction of hoarhound.""What is hoarhound?" said he.
"Llwyd y Cwn," said I. "Pour some of that down the sheep's throat twice a day, by means of a horn, and the sheep will recover, for the bitterness, do you see, will destroy the worm (11) in the liver, which learned men say is the cause of the disorder."We left the brook on our left hand and passed by some ruined walls which my guide informed me had once belonged to houses but were now used as sheepfolds. After walking several miles, according to my computation, we began to ascend a considerable elevation covered with brown heath and ling. As we went on the dogs frequently put up a bird of a black colour, which flew away with a sharp whirr.
"What bird is that?" said I.
"Ceiliog y grug, the cock of the heath," replied my guide. "It is said to be very good eating, but I have never tasted it. The ceiliog y grug is not food for the like of me. It goes to feed the rich Saxons in Caer Ludd."We reached the top of the elevation.
